Lenny in Tourist-land

Spent the day at Shuri-jo /castle/ today.

Kazue and Ken dropped me off at the train station at Furujima and showed me how to buy a ticket to Shuri. Luckily the names of the stations were written in English so it was easy enough to find my way. However, once off the tracks, so to speak, I got a little turned around. Really, you'd think they'd make better signs considering how many tourists there are, but maybe it's just me and my tendency to ignoring said signs.

I wandered around for a bit, then accosted a two local teens for directions. By "directions" I mean I waved my hands and said, 'Shuri-jo?' and they pointed vaguely away from where we were. Ah, what would I ever do without the ever-so-useful, universal pointing method of communication. Though, I dare say as persons living in a town with confusing signs and a local tourist site they're bound to have that kind of experience sooner or later. In any case, I arrived there eventually (hot and sweaty) after having circled the train station and walking in from the opposite direction.

The castle was nice, though a surprising number of tourists--- surprising because most of them were mainland Japanese---made it a rather crowded place to be. I guess one castle really isn't like the next. Being closer to China, the Chinese influence is very apparent in Shuri-jo's architecture, from the red and gold coloring of the central courtyard to the dragon statuary adorning the roofs.

Going into the castle, everyone had to take off their shoes and turn off their cameras because -No Pictures Allowed!- which was rather irritating but they had a lot of neat things on display. One thing in particular which caught my attention was a giant chop /signature stamp/ which was carved with what looked like Arabic script. I wonder what they used it for?

Overall, it was smaller than I thought it would be--- my thinking being, of course that if you're the king of an entire island nation you're going to want a more impressive castle, but what do I know about kings and castles.

It was an fun experience, as these things go, but I think underlying everything was the knowledge that this was the first time I'd ever done something entirely new by myself. Somehow everything seems much more strange and awkward when you're alone. Not only that but there's no one there to talk to about what you're seeing and doing, no one to take pictures with or complain about stuff with. This of course explains the strained three-quarter profile shots of me as I attempted to take a reasonably attractive picture of myself. For some reason it feels weird asking people to take pictures of me--- I think it's because I know in many ways I blend into the rest of the crowd and I don't want to suddenly stand out.

Leaving the castle I walked around in the surrounding park area. Near a lake I saw a truly freakish looking turkey-duck-bird thing but didn't take a picture. Just imagine a mix between a goose and a turkey and you'll have an idea of what this thing looked like. Turning the corner from there I saw the cutest thing!

A small "island" (man-made) in the middle of the water with space enough for a few small trees and a wooden house. Luckily the path led right to a bridge across. A plaque near the bridge told me that Korean monks had inhabited the island/house during the Shuri king's reign. I spent a few minutes there admiring and taking pictures but the arrival of another tourist ruined the feeling of enchanted solitude and I left. Walking back toward the train station (going the right way this time!) I passed by the art college and noticed a very Miyazaki-esque sculpture set at the foot of a tree.

There's something very magical about it. It seems like it might actually be some kind of protective forest spirit and I love the almost human expression--- it reveals a rather fierce but sweet (I hope!) character.

Anyway, even though it felt like I'd spent a while there it was only two or three in the afternoon when I left Shuri, so I decided to take the train to Kokusai street. The train was busy at this time of day, many business people having just gotten off work but in the sea of Asian faces I saw this one tall, skinny white guy. I noticed him because he just had this half-bemused smile on his face which really just expressed how I was feeling inside (I might've had the same look on my face for all I knew!) In retrospect, I hope he didn't think I was checking him out but I did smile his way as I got off and he smiled back- so ha! (ha? why ha?)

Getting off at the same time as me was a group of business women. Watching them as they walked ahead of me, their matching kick-pleats flapping open and closed with their matching stride, I couldn't help but think, "A little variety, please!" Somehow Japanese business wear seems to be restricted to the little black suit with knee-length skirt and white shirt... I think some of them even had matching shoes. Well, I suppose it's cute in a way.

So! Kokusai is basically this huge long street of just souvenir shops. It's amazing how many things are just crammed into that space and I wish I'd taken more pictures but anyway. Since goya /bitter melon/ is a traditional Okinawan food there were hilarious street-side benches shaped like goya with statues of strange kewpie dolls and famous figures i.e. Marilyn Monroe.

I think I gave myself whiplash looking around in wide-eyed amazement. Which might explain why I turned around and walked right into a smoked pig's head. I kid you not! A pig's head--- smoked!! It was just bizarre and very 'Lord of the Flies'-esque. I responded to this sight with a delicately feminine "gah!" and jumped away only to bump into a string of purses--- made out of frogs--- real ones. Do people actually buy these things?! I guess being a tourist really does make people think that their loved ones will want a change pouch made from a frog as a souvenir. Or for people who prefer a more traditional touch, why not a nice jar of sake with a preserved snake inside? Yum!

Which is not to say that everything had that 'ew' factor. There was a cute robot-thing handing out tissues (an startling young children) and the kawaii friends: Goya-chan, Beniimo-chan and Pineapple-chan. Which is to say: Goya, Beniimo and Pinapple headed plushies, charms and anything else you could possibly think of to attract tourists.

I wandered down one side but halfway down I realized I was hungry and exhausted, and while I did have a choice of restaurants I finally settled on McDonalds. Some of the restaurants seemed... a little shady so I figured, better the evil I know. After an appetizing, though less than nutritious dinner I hopped the train back to Furujima and then 'home sweet home' (for the rest of the week anyway) Hmm tourist-land, I think I'll have to go back some day when I have a little more energy.