Summer Nights

It's raining tonight. I can hear the wind whistling and the rain lashing against the glass. If I close my eyes, I can pretend I'm at home in my own bed. The storm is a more familiar lullaby than the chirping cicadas or the strange warbling song of the geckos that usually accompany the Okinawan nights.

In the morning, the sounds of the sirens and cars, the public announcements and the jingles of the garbage trucks making their rounds will be like an alien language calling me from sleep. But inside my apartment the silence will seem overbearing. Where are the sounds of everybody? Mom's voice calling me down to breakfast (Aunty's voice asking, 'What's for breakfast?') WeiA telling me to 'wake up!', and ShuSen and Chunni squabbling in the background (already?). All these noises I never noticed; the random variations of pitch and vibration mingling to create a rhythm as familiar to me as my own heartbeat. My ears seem to miss them. The silence inside wakes me up as surely as the noises without.

'Party-At-The-Family-Tomb' Day + Aquatic Trip

Around this time of the year the Japanese celebrate Obon /Festival of the Dead/ or as I like to call it 'Party-At-Your-Family-Tomb' Day. During this festival, whole families ranging in size from five to thirty people visit their ohaka /family tomb/ to honour their dead ancestors in a mix of Buddhist tradition and Chinese ancestor-worship. This usually entails a day for cleaning the area, a duty performed by the family's oldest son and often three generations of elder sons will participate. The women, in the meantime, prepare a feast for a family picnic. Somehow the division of work seems a little gender biased but that just might be my Westernized view at work. However, parts of the tradition have evolved with the times with families pitching tents and even barbeque-ing in true camp+picnic fashion.

Personally I think it's a great tradition and a much more poignant way of remembering the dead. I mean sure we could all cry, bow our heads--- have dinner with those moments of awkward silence and the kids sliding sideways glances at each other because they don't know how to behave--- but I think all that really does is emphasize the empty space where that person used to be. 'Party-At-Your-Family-Tomb' Day seems to be more about remembering that the dead thought not physically there, are still a part of the family. And the gathering is a way to thank the ancestors for giving life to the present and the future. It's like saying, "Here we are! We're all happy and doing well. Thank you!" I mean, I'm not saying that I think there is something--- if anything--- after death but if there is I imagine the dead would want their families to think of them with fondness and happiness than with sorrow. But again... that's just me.

Drive down anywhere and you're sure to see stone tombs lining the roads. Apparently many tombs occupy 'prime' property--- on beach fronts facing the ocean or the top of hills. Ironically in past times when these tombs were placed people had no way of protecting themselves from typhoons, and often the most dangerous places to live were near the water or on high ground. Now with more foreigners coming in and beach front property become popular, the old tombs are being relocated. I'm not sure if I find this strange or funny. Maybe a little of both.

Anyway, Laura, her brother Mike had graciously invited me to visit the aquarium with them and since hibernating in my apartment was getting old, I graciously accepted. The drive was a long one, the aquarium being on the other end of the island, but we made it down there with good humour.

Walking down to the aquarium the gardens have all sorts of sea creatures represented in topiary form. My favourite was the sea turtle with the baby turtle on it's back (pictures on facebook). Inside I was pondering whether to get the one-day pass or the season pass which is twice the price of the one-day but you can go as many times as you want. I ultimately got the one-day pass, but in retrospect it would've been worth it to get the season pass. Oh well... live and learn.

Walking around inside, some things were familiar, the little eels and clown fish for example; but there were a lot of things I'd never seen before, like the bioluminescent deep-sea fish (very cool!) or the GIANT lobsters which were pretty much the biggest lobster I've ever seen. They also have a "Shark Research" section with cool facts about sharks and some really icky stuffed shark models. The thing with the biggest ew-factor though was the live shark-egg sacks. You could see the fetus shark squirming around inside. It was like driving by a train-wreck--- I wanted to look away but couldn't help staring in a sort of morbid fascination.

Churami has (supposedly) the biggest aquarium tank in the world--- and I can believe it!! Their large tank holds two huge whale-sharks, two full grown manta rays as well as hundreds of smaller, different species of rays. different species of sharks and fish also inhabit the big tank. It was amazing, and very popular as well--- the place was packed, wall to wall and I you really had to push your way through or shuffle with the crowd. You really had to watch out for the grannies though, that's some fierce elbow action there. In a genius marketing plan they designed a restaurant/cafe right next to the big tank and luckily Laura, Mike and I were able to find a table right next to the tank! (A few inches of glass separating us from a whole lot of water and fish. Eek!) We had lunch there (and shot of a lot of really nice pictures) and I had my first ever taco rice, a popular combination of taco topping on white rice. It was tasty but very bizarre.

Although Churami Aquarium is only one section of the vast Ocean Side Park, which includes beaches, gardens, museums and even a butterfly zoo, it really is worth a full day's visit. I hope I get the chance to go there again and check out some of the other sights--- probably when dad comes to visit! They also have an outdoor section with a dolphin pool where they have shows (it started raining so we didn't stay for that) as well as a turtle enclosure-- SO CUTE!! Anyway, Even though I've been to aquariums elsewhere, I'm still fascinated by what I see and in my opinion Churami really is one of the best!

Really?

Is the coffee really THAT good?

Peace Out

Looking back at my pictures I realized I've been making a lot of the uber-Asian peace signs. What to do? There's only so much to do with your hands when you're going solo in a picture, but I'll try to think of something.

Beni-imo ga DAISUKI

(I just realized that Kazue, Ken & Kai's names all start with 'K')

Touristed through Yomitan Village today with Kazue and Kai. Jiro Kinjo, one of Japan's Living National Treasures, used to live and work there. Kazue told me she actually saw him at work a few times when she came there as a girl. Kinjo-san died in 2004 at the age of 92 but apparently his family still lives and works there.

Although it's called a village, The area is more like a big private neighborhood where numerous ceramic makers and glass blowers all live, work and have their galleries. Though, of course, except for their houses it's not really private and tourists come and go so there are stores where you can buy the product, as well as a cafe and tea house.

The Yomitan potters use traditional Ryukyuan noborigama (wood-burning, up-hill kiln) which was being packed as we went by. It's huge and has separate compartments where pieces are stored as they're made. The first few were already loaded and according to Kazue, firing occurs about every 3 months. That's how long it takes to fill that thing!

As I went through the glass-blowing section I think they thought it was funny that I was taking so many pictures. But glass-blowing has always fascinated me! To think, that somebody actually discovered how to combine sand, minerals and heat into amazing works of art that are both beautiful and functional. Today production isn't as primitive and the artists recycle old glass cold drink bottles into beautiful cups, bowls, plates, vases and lamps.

After Yomitan, we drove to the coast. The area is called Zampa 'Cave', 'Cape' or 'Camp' depending on who you talk to, but I guess as long as you say "Zampa" people know what you're talking about. It was overcast and windy but the beaches still look so beautiful. Some intrepid visitors were actually swimming in the chilly watcher. Kazue just looked and said "mainlanders"--- I guess that really does just say it all .

There was a 'petting zoo' near there, and Kai was fascinated with the bunnies and had to buy carrots to feed them. For some reason, all the animals are kept in one giant caged area so, of course, whenever some kid comes by with food the goats run over; the big ones shoving the little ones, the bunnies scampering away before they're trampled. This did not stop any number of children from running after the bunnies and baby goats while trying to lose the big goats with little to no success. Kai being quite the clever one would throw some carrots far away for the big goats to chase and then feed the little things. I couldn't help thinking (wryly) that those big goats were once babies too--- nobody can resist a baby but once you get to a certain age it's out the door, kicked to the curb, left in the cold. I guess the same could be said of people too.

Anyway, we ventured to the lighthouse at Bolo Point. Looking at it from far away it didn't seem too tall but once we were actually inside and climbing, I could feel my blood rushing and my heart thumping with every step. Once we reached the top, the wind really hit us and I felt an alarming sensation of vertigo as I looked out at the rocks and the ocean. From that view point I noticed some brave (or stupid) fishermen lounging on the cliff side, a few careless meters away from a sharp drop into the volatile sea. Kai was feeling scared so Kazue took him down and I stayed to snap a few pictures, but as the number of people on the little deck increased I began to doubt the adage "safety in numbers". Even though I'm not scared of heights, climbing down was as nerve wracking as climbing up.

As we were walking away from the light house Kazue told me that during typhoon season the area is very dangerous and waves have been known to come past the lighthouse and carry unwary tourists away. Even now in spring, the waters are rough and swimmers and divers are cautioned about the strong tides where lives have been lost! I think for my first experience of Okinawan waters I'll prefer a calmer and shallower area of the coast!

While dangerous, the area is also very beautiful and picturesque. I saw one location where I would love to have some kind of feudal-Japanese photoshoot (think InuYasha or maybe Kenshin). Oops! My obsessive-compulsive cosplay nature is making itself known again.

Anyway, I really wanted to climb through some of the coral/volcanic rocks surrounding the coast but I was definitely not wearing the right kind of shoes for that kind of adventure. So the three of us enjoyed some ice cream at a nearby converted bus-to-concession-stand and I tried my first ever beni-imo (purple sweet potato) ice cream. It sounds like it would be a strange flavour but it was actually very good and a beautiful lavendery colour.

Since it was getting colder we decided to leave, however, driving out of the area we noticed that the cake factory was still open so we stopped off for a quick look around and y'know... free samples. I was so full when we left that I had to forgo dinner or I would pop! The beni-imo sweets and cakes are the best so I will definitely try to send some home. I also tried some strange local seaweed that looks like a string of tiny green bubbles. It tastes strange, though Kai seems to love it. I think it was more the look of it than anything else that made me not like it. Though it was a small experience, it reminded me that no matter what I come across in this year away from home I must endeavor to be more open minded and not afraid to try new things!